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How do I install tile?
This is a question that is both easy to answer and
difficult. We encourage do-it-yourselfers to install
ceramic tile. It is not too strenuous, unless it is
a big job or is under awkward conditions. Nevertheless
there are complexities and subtleties associated with
installing tile. We recommend starting by reading a
good book on the subject. You may want to purchase the
Tile Council of North America's TCA
Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation (see this
web site for ordering information). This Handbook contains
details for industry accepted practices as well as many
items of interest. It is not an installation-training
manual however. If you should decide to hire a professional
to install your tile, this Handbook is a very useful
tool to assure that the installer is using proper methods.
Make sure that you know your D-I-Y limitations and
do not take on a job that is too complex. Steam rooms,
pools, spas, outside decks, and showers are areas among
others that require proper installation or a failure
can occur. You will be surprised to find detailed instructions
on many products such as dryset mortar bags, backerboards,
and grouts. Please read the instructions carefully and
follow them as closely as possible. Tiling a dry area
is the easiest and if the substrate is smooth and sturdy
enough it can be simple. You might start out by trying
to tile such a location. Select the correct tile for
the use and of course, one you like. Layout the floor
carefully to avoid small cuts along walls or other transitions.
Placing the tiles on the floor before applying the adhesive
(so-called dry layout) will help. You can adjust the
centerlines and the grout width to avoid small cuts.
These are hard to make and do not look good.
Select the correct adhesive for the tile. Don't try
to save money on installation products, use the ones
recommended for the tile, type of substrate, and location.
If you are using several boxes of tile make sure they
are of the same caliber (size tolerance) and shade.
Usually the boxes will be marked with a code to tell
you this. But it is wise to open all the boxes if there
are more than one and randomly stack the tile before
installing. This is called shuffling the tiles. The
space between the tiles can be close for precision tiles
such as grout-edge or rectified porcelain tiles than
for irregular or rustic type of tiles. Grout is joint
filler. It is not designed to hold the tile in place.
Watch to make sure that the tiles are level as you go.
Beginners can fail to check for flatness and the job
won't look good.
Some points to watch out for:
· Use the correct notch-size trowel (indicated
on the adhesive bag or container.
· Spread enough mortar or mastic to properly
bed the tile for flatness. Big tiles require more adhesive
than little ones.
· Always use control joints at intersecting planes
and where the tile meets another material, such as wood.
· Make sure that you get all the air out from
under the tiles. This is especially tricky with 10X10
inch and larger tiles. These need to be slid or rotated
to get the trowel ridges flattened. If you don't do
this you will have voids under the tile and it can come
loose or break.
· Wait the proper amount of time before grouting
(or walking on the tiles). This time is indicated on
the adhesive container too.
· When you grout keep the grout on the dry side
and pack it well into the joints before striking them.
· Do no use too much water to clean the grout
haze off and do not clean it too soon or you can pull
the grout out of the joints.
· Remember that grout joints are not waterproof
so if you are doing a wet-area (such as a shower) rely
on the method and substrate to protect adjoining areas
from water.
These are just a few hints and are not to be considered
as complete instructions by any means. Happy Tiling
everyone!
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